Husqvarna Optima 610 Service Manual
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Hi All Used to watch U-Tubes from time to time and I noticed that Dave managed lots of times to source diagram for various even older item. I had no such luck with my sewing machine. Part that blew up looks like kind of EMC/RMI suppression. Is placed as first thing past ON/OFF switch between active and neutral of 240V power source. From part I got some info: 100n x2 PME 285MB 40/100/56 RIFA CW5 On the other side there are several what looks like country symbols plus 250V SH When I search all or some of this, unfortunately nothing comes as part for sale Made couple of not so good pictures, but have to work out how to post them. Thanks for any help. There's nothing wrong with these values.
It is as you found yourself just for basic filtering / suppression. The machine will probably work without it. Normally the capacity in these things does not really matter for the device to function.
So I just stick to the values they got in there originally or something near that. Voltage rating is of course important but AFAIK these caps are only made mains rated or higher. But this is not the factor that kills them!
The X2 class sais it can handle spikes of at least 2.5kV. Class X1 would handle up to 4kV if that is important for you. Whats more important is the fact these caps are not polarized and do not start to burn if they die. But at least older ones do often short then, which leads to malfunction.
Funny: Last one I replaced was in a footpedal for a sewing machine. The machine would run all the time as the resistors and switches in the pedal were shorted out. Edit: Start here for more information. Most appreciate fantastic help. Thanks to Dave's LCD monitor U-Tube I saved my Samsung 20' LCD monitor with $7 worth capacitors. And now looks that my Husqvarna sewing machine will get second life too.
On JayCar web site found those (15 mm spacing is exactly what is needed) for under $1 Australian. Is it adequate replacement?: 250V AC Mains - Metallised Polypropylene Capacitors - X2 100N Volt Rating: 275/250VAC Capacitance Tolerance: +/-10% std +/-5% Operating Temperature: -40°C to 85°C Value = 100N Lead Spacing = 15mm So hardly need for sourcing one for free. Love that polarity is not important, not that I cannot keep an eye on this, but it gives extra stress. Also will try to desolder failed capacitor and try sewing machine without it. Big thanks again!! I've got exactly the same machine second hand and the day I plugged it in was working fine for about 5 minutes and then, suddenly, I heard a strong sound and it started smoking white.
When I opened it I saw I've got the same problem as you!!! I was so glad to find this post!!!
So I replaced the piece following your instructions but the machine refuses to work now ((( The light still works so it means it gets power.I'm scared is the engine;__.but I dont know how to check if the motor works or not. Any advise??? I join some photos that I did the day I opened it the first time now the white piece has been replaced.
Thank you very much, any help will be apreciated. Raquelmpq, that white capacitor is very likely connected across the AC mains input to the electronics board. In the other posts above, apparently when the cap failed it did not blow the mains fuse on the circuit board. That's the little metal and glass cylinder just behind the cap in your photo.
Maybe yours did blow that fuse? You can tell by looking at it - is the wire inside intact? Can't tell from your photo. I'm guessing from your post that you are not much into electronics and found this thread & forum via google? Not a problem, just need to know how best to help. Do you have a way to post pics that are clearer? Mini Bike Service Manual. Why is the photo posterized into so few colours?
Ah, I think the forum software has compressed it because the XY size in pixels is so huge. It's 3,264px × 1,836px. If you can reduce images to something like 1000 x 800 pixels before uploading, they will look much better. So, do you have a soldering iron? Or can borrow one? To remove the blown white cap, you don't need a solder sucker, just the iron. Put finger pressure lifting one end of the cap upwards away from the PCB, while you melt the solder on the pin under that end.
Helps if you can hold the circuit board in something as you do this, unless you have a third hand/helper. The cap will lift a little bit. Switch to the other end, do the same, it will lift a little more. Repeat, going back and forth, and the cap will come free after about 3 cycles. You can clear the holes of solder by poking them with a toothpick while melting the solder with the iron. Try to keep all the solder-melting time to a minimum, or the heat can make the copper track separate from the PCB.
But it's not a disaster if it does, as that can be fixed with a little bit of wire. Once you get the burned cap out, clean as much as you can of the mess off the nearby parts. Methylated spirits and a tissue will do. Are you sure there are no other fuses? There might be one in a pop-out holder at the mains cord entry socket on the outside of the machine. If not, do check the circuit breaker for that power point didn't trip. Plug a lamp or something else into the power point to check.
Also, can you post a photo of the other side of the circuit board for the area you showed above (and a bit more around.) So we can check that cap, fuse etc are really what we thought.
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